Transmission Tunnel for 5-Speed

[vettn71]

My 84 roller had an automatic in it. Will I need to modify the transmission tunnel to use my T-45 in it? What would be the best way to do that? I thought about cutting the top third of the trans tunnel from a sn95 5-speed car and welding it into place. Any thoughts on that idea?

Thanks for the help
Jim

 

[joshh]

You don't have to do anything but there is an extra bump around the shifter hole that is spot welded in you would need to make the shift boot fit like factory

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[vettn71]

Okay. I appreciate the help n this

Jim

 

[Bill]

The hole on your 84 is not shaped quite the same as the 87-93. I had to trim the one on the 85 I put together for the aftermarket shifter to fit right. I just used heavy duty nibblers. Transplanting the tunnel from your donor isn't necessary, but if it gives you the fit you want for what ever custom work you are doing, it isn't a bad idea.

 

[vettn71]

Thanks, Bill. You're a great help. I wish I had your expertise on this. When I went to the JY, I went ahead and had them cut out the tunnel from a sn95 5-speed car from just forward of the dash mounts to behind the console mount. The difference in price was minimal. I also had them cut out the area that has the steering column bearing and the hydro boost MC. That should help me align everything. I probably won't use but bits and pieces, but if I need something, it's there. I'll post some pictures of what I bought tomorrow. Time to take the wife out to dinner

Jim

 

[Bill]

I think that's a great idea. The plate for the column bearing is spot welded. Drill out the spot welds on the one from the SN95 and the one from you fox. You will have to trim the one from the SN95 one the corner next to the frame. Some people weld them in. Rivets or screws work to, unless you plan to autocross it. I like to just stitch weld it in and then use a good automotive sealer that can be painted. There are some great pictures of how to do that on this site. On the Hydroboost, part of the holes line right up. You will need to elongate one hole and drill the fourth hole. That will put the actuator in the correct location for the pedal connecting rod. There are lots of different ways to do just about all of these little projects as part of the greater swap. Some are better than others, so pic the one that best meets your skills, available facilities, and budget.

 

[vettn71]

Thanks, Bill. One of the guys I work with is going to cover some basic welding using the welder I have. I may wind up buying a new one, if this one doesn't work out. It's a HF flux core wire fed MIG welder, but it only has two current ranges. That may be too limiting. I'll find out here in a bit.

If I can get the hang of it, I'd prefer to weld things in, as opposed to pop rivets. Somehow that just doesn't seem right. I'm sure it works okay.

 

[vettn71]

Trans tunnel from an sn95. Because the dash has to be trimmed, I don't think the relationship between the dash mount brackets and the opening for the shifter. I think it will have to be split, then welded in. Not sure. If someone has done it this way, please chime in. It would be nice if the whole thing could just be dropped in... Prolly not


Top photo is the "hump" for the 5-speed transmission. You can see where it is welded, then a seam sealer put on it.

 

[Bill]

So, your e-brake and shifter will stay relative to where they are. The console mounting brackets are relative to where the e-brake and shifter come through console as well. Once the console brackets are in, you can trim the dash to fit so that it mates up to the console properly on the one end and the fire wall on the other. Remember that you will not see most of the cut edge that is against the firewall. In the end, it will be important for you to have the console to dash fit properly, because that is what everyone will see.

 

[vettn71]

Hmmmm, so I don't fit the dash first? Maybe I misread something. It would be easier, I think, to fit the console brackets, then the dash. Bill, is there any difference between the mounting of the e-brake and console on the Fox and sn95? Seems they would be the same. That being the case, the dash could be mounted to the floor brackets, then trimmed to fit? This is all new to me.

I'm learning about spot welds :0(

I separated the steering column plate from the piece of firewall today. I think there were 30 spot welds! Good thing I also have a air chisel. Spot weld cutters seem to be mostly worthless. When I cut the spot weld it either goes all the way through or it doesn't separate. What a whipping!

Jim

 

[Bill]

The ebrake is the same from Fox to SN95. And yes, the dash gets mounted to the floor brackets. I got my floor bracket off by almost 3/4 of an inch the first time, and have seen others with extra "trim" where the dash mates up to the console. Since the ebrake/shifter/console are all one relevant unit, that helps you place the brackets properly. You don't leave the console in place once the brackets are in the right place. You just use it to get everything lined up.

I agree. I hate dealing with spot welds. I always tear something up or crack it.

 

[vettn71]

My project has hit a bump in the road. I had my right shoulder replaced Wednesday. The surgeon said if I waited six months thy would not be able to do it at all. I assumed it was due to my weight lifting, but he said probably not. My youngest nest son may pitch in and help from time to time, so we'll see how it goes