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63 Fairlane DOHC runs!!!

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
Congrats on getting her going. It will be an awesome family hotrod.
 

ndfastang

Active Member
I had the plug wires mixed up because I put the coils behind the intake. I got the wires fixed and it starts good and rev's better but still is hesitant. It's running 10:1 AFR at idle and will creep up with slow pedal but while driving up the drive and romping it, It'll go to 17:1 easily. Just idle moving up the drive it runs at 11.5. Does this sound right for an unturned engine with lots more air flow and different cams? No cats, swapped to dual exhaust and long tubes. The leaning out I get but the rich part is strange to me. With the IMRC's out, I would have guessed it would be lean all the time. Maybe the O2's being back farther does it? I really need to get the tuner.
Dave
 

ndfastang

Active Member
That's going to have to wait. Ran out of fun money for a little bit. What a tease of a point to stop at.
 

ndfastang

Active Member
See if this video works. First, Yes, I did film and drive. There are lots of us people still in the world that can in fact do two things at once and focus on the primary. That's why the camera turns on the second run.

You can hear the lag down low and then it really picks up hard up top after the 3000 rpm IMRC tuning goes away. I really need to tune this thing. Afr goes from 10.5 down low till I hit that same RPM range and then it jumps to 14.5. Once I get the bottom end tuned and optimize it all, It's on. I think I'm working a deal for a power rack too so steering will be great for the wife.


http://vid259.photobucket.com/albums/hh298/ndfastang/20150925_190220.mp4
 

ndfastang

Active Member
Thanks! I have 3.73's in it now. The trans is a 4R70W so it has a wide ratio as it is. Plus, it doesn't have the get up it needs since the lower end isn't tuned and I wasn't full throttle on that either. It shifts great when at WOT up in the higher rpm's. I may consider later. For now, they seem good.
 

ndfastang

Active Member
Lets see if the new web pic host works......

New headlights installed. Just need a rear window seal and I can drive it. I need to install the windshield and rear window with their seals but otherwise, fasten the fenders completely and then get it on the road and feel it out.



I didn't update this site but I also got the Moates Quarterhorse installed and tuned a little. I need to get it on the road to really log and see the changes.
 

ndfastang

Active Member
Thanks!

I have a 64 falcon waiting for me. I'm torn between full 25.X chassis drag car with big tire, or go this route with a Coyote. I really want another drag car but have to finish this first.
 

ndfastang

Active Member
Well, it's been a while and I've done a lot of back and forth thinking. I went ahead and decided to install the blower for good. I had a slight leak on the back head crossover mod so I had to fight back there to get it resealed. I have a new radiator in with room to install a vintage air setup so, I'll get that later. The intercooler and piping all fit fine. New injectors, BOV, AFPR and coolant setup are in. I need to get a PMAS MAF, a pair of fans and run an air filter setup on it and it's basically ready for the dyno. I can't tune this thing for the life of me so I found a guy that knows the Moates stuff well and says he will have no issues with it. No actual current pics but here she is with the blower installed.





I really hope I can get her done this year. Then I can decide on a color and get it painted and all new seals installed. I'm also going to a 275 rear tire with wider rims now instead of the 225's I have on there now. Something tells me I will need the added traction. After all that, I may forge the bottom end and shoot for a 600rwhp range. I'll change my mind again before then so no worries.
 

ndfastang

Active Member
Thanks!
I ordered a pair of 10" 1800CFM fans to fit around the blower. I installed a 180 thermostat with 2 holes drilled for the flow. I also ordered up a few -20AN fittings and hose to make a lower radiator hose rather than run some ugly clamp up and reducer setup. I got a few -20 weld in bungs for the radiator as well as a 3/8npt weld in bung for a switch for the fans rather than rely on the "in the fin" style of sensor. Cleaner and more reliable. On a good note, with all this, I made enough room to install an AC setup between the radiator and IC. I am going to swap over to a floor mount B+M or Hurst style shifter though. The detent in the steering column is not working out as well as planned and I want to make sure it can't accidentally be pushed into reverse or something. Oh well.

I'll have more pics of this stuff when it all gets in and I ge to working on it.

Dave
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
Good call on the screw in switch. I've never had good luck with the fin mount probes. There is far too much vibrations
 
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