1. Hello there guest and Welcome to Modular Fox Mustangs home of the 2V, 3V, 4V, Coyote Modular Mustang Conversion Information Website!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

    Dismiss Notice

79 Coupe 4.6 Dohc conversion

Discussion in '1979-1993 4.6L Conversion' started by BDvs, Mar 19, 2015.

  1. BDvs

    BDvs Active Member

    Messages:
    37
    Likes Received:
    15
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Sorry this is going soooooo slow. I finally got a steering column boot! Just realized how hard it is to find a nice column boot. With that said, be sure to pull you column boot loose from the firewall before lowering you column down.....my bad :blackeye:. I'll add some pics as soon as I figure out how to do it now. Says my file is too big to upload now.
     
    cpearson1342 likes this.
  2. BDvs

    BDvs Active Member

    Messages:
    37
    Likes Received:
    15
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Just looking at my last post and cringing... So other than purchasing parts and getting my supercharger kit completed, I have sadly done nothing with my car. Smh! On top of that, I’m considering selling my 4.6 cobra engine, supercharger kit, and all my swap goodies to finance a Coyote swap. I’ll make a final decision by next weekend and either start selling off parts or start modding my k-member to put my 4.6 engine in.
     
  3. BDvs

    BDvs Active Member

    Messages:
    37
    Likes Received:
    15
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Just a quick teaser. I planned on digging all my parts out just to do a quick inventory of what I have and what I’ll need. I stopped doing that shortly after digging out the k member and decided I’ll put the car on my hoist tomorrow and get the k member fabbed up. The motor still needs seals for the valve covers and timing cover, but I couldn’t help myself, I had to get a glimpse of what it’s going to look like :).
    552C1A08-FAA8-44C0-9563-BF524737D607.jpeg 5C459549-6CE0-4315-A1A6-CCF837A95775.jpeg
     
    Bill and Mase Cooper like this.
  4. Mase Cooper

    Mase Cooper Member

    Messages:
    22
    Likes Received:
    7
    Trophy Points:
    13
    what orange did you use? Nicely done...!
     
  5. BDvs

    BDvs Active Member

    Messages:
    37
    Likes Received:
    15
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Thank you! It’s a custom Chip Foose paint color. I got it at a local paint supply shop. Orange amber pearl is the name. It’s like a candy color, very transparent, but that’s what gives it so much depth.
     
  6. BDvs

    BDvs Active Member

    Messages:
    37
    Likes Received:
    15
    Trophy Points:
    28
    4FB2DDF1-15D1-41B8-B549-FB47030A96C5.jpeg 5318BF30-A07E-4AF4-8ACF-F90A4D186C38.jpeg 7D2F0F1B-9A29-4682-9B0D-781FB6708377.jpeg 29A0BB60-FAAB-4E34-8C74-3EF5711BE0AC.jpeg 1A2C0D82-009C-49C0-8DB5-DED3E370A1BF.jpeg 3827E9F9-9177-4C61-8D69-ED422CB2C5F5.jpeg 49208586-3C90-4254-8106-577B2F533B75.jpeg E6742B48-F89C-452C-82B2-DBF29376D348.jpeg I want to start off by adding, I am in no way blazing any trails with this K-member mod. I am simply documenting my modifications and maybe helping someone else by doing so. That being said, I have my budget K-member nearly complete. This is what I did. I used a stock 4.6 Mustang K-member. I took measurements of the back tab and measuring on the inside of the rear tab I found the length was approximately 3” on my stock 1979 302 K-member and 3 1/2 inches on the 4.6 K-member. Knowing know that I need to take 1/2 inch out of the back tab. The easy thing to do is just slot the holes and cut 1/2 inch off the back, however, that’s not how I like to do things. I want it to look stock after my alterations. Before making any mods I took note that my stock K-member (black K-member) has slots that go side to side on the rear tab and the 4.6 rear tab is slotted front to back. I took measurements and decided to measure 1/2 inch forward (towards what would be the front of the car if installed) from each hole and made a line. From that line I measured back and made marks at 1 inch and 1 1/2 inches. Once all my measurements were made I used a die grinder to slot the holes forward approximately 3/8 inch. I then used a cutoff wheel and removed the center section. After tack welding the rear portion back on, I installed it to check fitment. Once I was happy with the fitment, I finished welding and slotting the holes as needed. All that’s left is to paint the K-member. I’ll add pictures of the final product after I finish touching up the weld in 1 spot and re grinding the area flat.
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2018
  7. Bill

    Bill Well-Known Member Staff Member Donator

    Messages:
    1,410
    Likes Received:
    245
    Trophy Points:
    93
    I like the clip and weld approach. The last one I did was just trimmed and slotted. Yours looks very nice.
     
  8. BDvs

    BDvs Active Member

    Messages:
    37
    Likes Received:
    15
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Thanks Bill! There’s nothing at all wrong with trimming the end off, I wanted it to appear stock. I’m thinking about opening a window up on both sides of the k-member as well to add more access to the engine. These k-members are so over built, not to mention the stock 5.0 k-members have a small window from the factory. Haven’t 100% decided on that yet....gotta see if I’ll really gain anything from opening it up first.
     

Share This Page