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98 cobra disassembled engine?

stangracer90

Active Member
I bought a disassembled 98 cobra engine that didn't have the intake but it did have the original cobra valve covers but my concern is how can I determine if its the real cobra engine with forged internals?
 

Svt Fox

Well-Known Member
Staff member
The only thing that will be forged is the crank. Cast rods and pistons.
 

Wreckedj30

Active Member
8 bolt crank is a big hint, other than that look up casting numbers on the cams and water housing. Most of the other parts are interchangeable and exactly the same as the mark Viii.
 

stangracer90

Active Member
Ok I thought the pistons was supposed to be forged in the cobra also? Not real familiar with these engines but it does have the 8 bolt crank and and the parting lines on the throws are cut wide. I will get the numbers but where can I run them at to match them up?
 

Wreckedj30

Active Member
All the best info i found was at www.mustangmafia.com or a quick google search of cobra cam differences and the link should pop up. Here's a copy and paste version but on there website it's way cleaner and understandable layout.

03/04 Cobra, Mach 1, Aviator, Marauder, and all Mark 8s and Navigators
part number part number
Int: 184 deg @ .050/.394 lift Right Int see chart below Left Int see chart below Exh: 196 deg @ .050/.397’ lift Right Exh see chart below Left Exh see chart below 114 LSA, no advance
96-98 Cobra part number part number
Int: 204 deg @.050/ .39x” lift Right int F6ZE-6A270- Left int F6ZE-6A271- Exh: 196 deg @.050/ .39x” lift Right Exh F2LE6A272- Left Exh F2LE-6A273- 114 LSA, no advance
99/01 Cobra part number part number
Int: 200 deg @.050/.39x” lift Right Int YF3E-6A270 Left Int YF3E-6A271 Exh: 196 deg @.050/.39x” lift Right Exh Left Exh
114 LSA no advance
FR500 (M-6550-T46) part number part number
Int: 212 deg @.050/.472” lift Right Int XE-6A270-287689 Left Int XE-6A271-287690 Exh 208 deg @.050/.472” lift Right Exh XE-6A272-290701 Left Exh XE-6A273-290702 109 LSA, no advance
GT Cams: actual as tested numbers, not Ford specs
part number part number
Int: 189 @.050"/.424” lift Right Int 4G7V-6A270-AA Left Int 4G7V-6A271-AA Exh: 190 @.050"/.448" lift Right Exh 4G7V-6A272-AA Left Exh 4G7V-6A273-AA LSA120, 2 deg retard
Left = Driver's side
GT Cams: Ford Specs part number part number
Int: seeabove Exh:
LSA114, no advance
Cobra R specs: part number part number
Int: 212 deg @.050”/.515'' lift Right Int YR3V-6A270-AA Left Int YR3V-6A272-AA Exh: 212 deg @.050”/.468'' lift Right Exh YR3V-6A271-AA Left Exh YR3V-6A273-AA LSA

Left=Driver's side Right=Passenger side
 

stangracer90

Active Member
Ok I'm pretty sure it's all cobra stuff the cams has the f2LE numbers and from what my buddy who owns a machine shop and builds engines said. He said to peck the crank and it should sing real loud if its forged and it does and it has the wide machine marks on the throws. So with that said I'm confident it's the cobra complete engine.
 

stangracer90

Active Member
Next question about the wiring I have seen everyone putting the dashes and everything in the foxes out of the mod cars so how do I get around that and what all wiring is needed and the distributors I have seen several do is that a good route to take and with that do you use the factory fox computer? Sorry for all the questions I'm just curious what all i need and like I said I'm new to the mod engines. Thanks
 

Svt Fox

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Get a complete 96-98 GT or Cobra harness and EEC. Preferably all from the same car.

Get a chip to eliminate the PATS alarm system.
 

ponyboy89lx

Well-Known Member
Staff member
MAKE SURE ALL YOUR SHIT IS FROM THE SAME CAR OR THERE WILL BE CHAOS. Just look at my build and you will see why this is touchy subject for me. LOL
 

stangracer90

Active Member
Yeh I've been reading up on your build and that's why I have been asking questions before I go into battle lol. I really like the distributor setup does it work well for you?
 

Svt Fox

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Yeh I've been reading up on your build and that's why I have been asking questions before I go into battle lol. I really like the distributor setup does it work well for you?

If you've been reading his build, you would know that he ditched the distributor setup.
 

ponyboy89lx

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Yeh I've been reading up on your build and that's why I have been asking questions before I go into battle lol. I really like the distributor setup does it work well for you?
It should have but the guy that welded the dizzy wasnt worth a shit and the weld broke so i ditched the idea, and went with cobra harness now im having trouble with PATS. So whatever you do make sure you get the wiring and computer and if you do the dash swap get the column and key ALL from the same car. I did not have this pleasure so now im up a creek. As far as the setup it custom made dizzy and all the wiring was from 89 fox car and A9L eec. If you can find the 4.6 wiring from a donor car with ALL of it there i would recommend that route. Because you only have one shot at cutting the hole in the valve cover for the dizzy, so if you jack it up you will have to buy a new valve cover.
 

stangracer90

Active Member
I must have skipped the part where you ditched the distributor but I like the idea and I still might try it, do they sell the adapter to weld in? That aluminum is tricky if you don't clean it real good your wasting your time welding it but I'm trying to stay away from any and all of the dash stuff if possible I like the fox dash and really hate to mess with that.
 

ponyboy89lx

Well-Known Member
Staff member
You can buy the whole dizzy setup but get ready to brake the bank it costly, you can keep the fox dash there are guys on here that kept it. Someone will chime in. Some wire the dash into the harness and some buy a harness that plugs into the stock harness and runs the 4.6 there are quite a few options. Oh yeah i made all of my stuff then had it welded
 

Svt Fox

Well-Known Member
Staff member
I am running a COP setup with the stock fox dash and gauge cluster. In my opinion, the COP system is much cleaner than the distributor or coil pack ignition systems.
 

ponyboy89lx

Well-Known Member
Staff member
I am running a COP setup with the stock fox dash and gauge cluster. In my opinion, the COP system is much cleaner than the distributor or coil pack ignition systems.
This is true if i EVER lol get my car lined out i will eventually change it to COP for the cleanliness. It looks so much better than friggen wires going everywhere. I seen on another forum that a guy was building the plug and play COP harness and selling them, granted you still need the COP's themselves and the valve covers, but i do think it looks alot better. In do time i guess for me lol.
 

stangracer90

Active Member
Ok well I appreciate the advice I'm not that far anyway I guess so I will just start with getting the engine back together and mocked up in the car first and go from there.
 
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