PI teskid swap into 93

[wasa4cylonce]

well i have a 93 lx hatch. i have done a full sn95 suspension swap so far. i also have a teskid block laying around in my basement. im thinking about a 4.6 2v aluminator swap.

i looked at carb and efi, efi will be cheaper, so thats the route i want to go.

i want to run the 2v for clearance, and engine bay room, and well it will be cool with an aluminum block.

also the far future plans include a turbo, because i just can not add a turbo to something.

but for now, the mark VIII long block is taking up space.

i have a few questions, can i run the PI heads and ignition off a pre 99 ecu? 99 and up is cop and lower is the coil packs so i do not know if theres a way to make this work so i do not need to tune around PATS.

i know of the basics, k member, trans cross member etc. i would like to stay auto for now, the gf would like to drive it once and well she can not drive stick. so i know the 4r70 works well, but if i recall the mod motor had an aod in the early vics. would this trans work? would the 4r70 need any extra wiring or sensors (wheel speed) that were not on the fox?

anyone used the aod in the fox swap? i would like the 4r70, but as mentioned i do not know how the ecu would work out.

with mark pistons and pi heads i know ill need to run 93 octane as the cr will be above 11-1 but is there any other downside? ( i know turbo thats in the future)

also does the 02 harness that goes to the ecu have an obdII port? can one be added? if so how?

i have been stalking, and i have searched a bit, but the wiring is something im not too sure about.

and finally, as for removing the egr, etc, i know it can be tuned out, but can i just remove the pins? i only want to run what is needed, this will simpifly things a bit, but will i need a custom tune, or can a standard tuner handle this?

thanks heres a pic of the car now

 

[Bill]

Some, but not all, of you question are answered here:
http://modularfoxmustangs.com/community/threads/teksid-2v-tech-article-must-read.821/

You can run this swap on a coil pack set up. I have seen that several times. You won't run a turbo for long on Mark Viii crank, pistons and rods. Consider a Cobra crank and a lower CR. There are a lot of options for rod/piston combos that will work. Are you sure you want to run a carb? 2V EFI is really inexpensive and bolt on turbo kits are already pre-engineered for that intake/exhaust configuration. It has been years since I put together a Teksid/2V, so I'm looking forward to watching your build.

 

[wasa4cylonce]

bill, im going efi, its the cheaper route, but i considered carb so threw that in there.

i gotta check the link out then and get back to you, as for the first installment, ill just need it running na. then ill pull and build it for a turbo some day down the road, so the high cr, and weak internals will be fine.

 

[wasa4cylonce]

just checked your link, found it already and i have a print out.

thanks

 

[Bill]

If something in the article doesn't make sense, let me know. There is some debate out there about which parts to use and how much CR and HP you can get. The bottom line is that you should feel free to question everything. If something doesn't answer the questions why or so what, question it. The hole in the block is really easy, and you can do it in your garage. With the exceptions of a little clearance work on some blocks, the rest really is just bolt on.

 

[wasa4cylonce]

well i do have one question on cr that i haven't been able to find. with the mark pistons ans pi heads it will be like 12-1 cr. will this be an issue on 93 octane? i still want to drive it and all. also would a thicker head gasket work to lower cr, or is that a bad idea with the mod motor?

 

[Bill]

You will be able to tune the car to run on 93 octane. If you use a not factory spec head gasket, you change your timing chain slack, you intake clearances, etc. As long at it meets 2V spec, you will be fine.

 

[wasa4cylonce]

how thick of a headgasket can you run on the 2v?


and that sounds like a good plan so far

 

[Bill]

I couldn't tell you about thick. I've always used Felpro Performance Gaskets.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Fel-Pro/375/9790PT-2/10002/-1
These will handle the compression just fine. I would recommend you invest in a good head stud kit. Since you are planning a rebuild after this assembly, the threads on that block only have so many uses in them before you would be helicoiling them. If the bolts all came out clean this time, studs would prevent a later loss or damaged block.

 

[wasa4cylonce]

really they are that bad? is there anything the machine shop can do to help? maybe a steel insert like a helicoil but better?

 

[Bill]

Yes, a machine shop can put inserts in, but they will likely charge about what a head stud set costs. If you are willing to put in helicoils, then I say just use good head bolts and deal with the problem it/when it comes up. You will know when it does. One of two things are most likely. Either you won't be able to get a head bolt to torque, or you'll loose a head gasket. Neither are generally catastrophic, assuming you are paying attention. If you use the gaskets I listed above, the head set isn't terribly expensive. if you use some the exotics that go for $300 a set, that can be a bit more aggravating.

 

[wasa4cylonce]

well studs are a must on a build for power, but i though the issue was with the aluminum block? so wouldnt an insert be needed with studs too?

 

[Bill]

The threads actually get damaged during the removal of the head bolt (Ford never intended those bolts to come out). It is usually on the reassembly that you discover it. By going to studs, you find a problem well in advance of damaging gaskets. Once the studs are properly installed, unless you are remachining the block, they don't (shouldn't) come back out. I know it does sometimes happen if you pull an engine down twice or more in a season, but I don't think you are performing that kind of build.

 

[wasa4cylonce]

got ya sounds like a plan, it aint that kinda build right now but in the future who knows