• Hello there guest and Welcome to Modular Fox Mustangs home of the 2V, 3V, 4V, Coyote Modular Mustang Conversion Information Website!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

5.0 C0yote swap in a 89 Hatchback

CabernetFox

Ihatewheelhop
Donator
My first thread. I'm not a experienced blogger. Please have patience.
I just received my new crate engine and TKO 600 which I bought from Downs Ford in New Jersey.
Sweet looking, no grime!!
I've been collecting parts for a couple months now. I have:
Coyote & TKO
Quicktime RM6081 bell
Centerforce clutch
Stifflers Crossmember
BBK 1634 Longtubes
UPR swap chromemoly k-member
New Starter, clutch fork, urethane motor mounts. 31 spline yoke, $$ are adding up..
I need to get fuel system mods and a front drive kit.

I'm an old Mopar guy that has crossed over. I've had many Mopars but I like the idea of driving a car from an American company. Hope this doesn't give anybody heartburn!!

I'll add to the post as I do the install.
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
You are correct, that the money can add up fast. Are you planning to use Ford Racing's control pack for wiring and computer duties? Did you buy the UPR kit, or do you have something else in mind for the front suspension? I'm looking forward to watching your project come together.
 

CabernetFox

Ihatewheelhop
Donator
I bought the new M50K kit that comes with the control pack. Ford lowered the price for the combo pack. I already have the UPR kit with chromemoly K-member and coilovers.
I looked all over the web and read dozens of conflicting advice about coilovers and which springs to use. I picked 12-250's.
 

CabernetFox

Ihatewheelhop
Donator
Fitted the new Vintage air Frontrunner drive system yesterday. It's beautiful!! There's nothing like working with new stuff.
I had to repair the cowl b4 I drop her in. I bought the car with damage from the previous owner having a hood blow up and dent the cowl. Looks good now.
I've fitted the UPR K-member. It is slotted, but doesn't want to adjust much. I expect a 25 year old uni-body has moved around a little. I have to say I'm a little pissed about all the conflicting information out there on the net about UPR swap K-member and fitment of BBK longtubes. I called UPR but they were vague by saying " They should fit". Some have said you have to put spacers between the k-member and frame and spacers under the motormounts. I guess I'll have to find out on my own.
We've had so much rain here in Iowa, I don't get to work on it much as I would like. I have everything except mid pipe so it should go pretty fast once I get a few good days work.
I'll post some pictures as soon as I start the drop.
 
Last edited:

CabernetFox

Ihatewheelhop
Donator
Yup.. Pan hits UPR K-member and BBK headers don't fit. I hate the thought of spacers. Just poor engineering by UPR.

panhits.jpg
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
I try very hard not to say bad things about UPR, as a lot of people use their parts. When I owned ACM, we avoided selling UPR parts because of engineering and manufacturing problems. At this point, you have what you have and will either have to start over or make it work. Spacing the k-member down is easy. I've never tried motor mount spacers. Will they even work without extra fab?
 

CabernetFox

Ihatewheelhop
Donator
Progress. I fabricated spacers from aluminum bar for moving k-member down and engine up. Looks ok, I guess. I talked to UPR at Joliet last weekend and complained. They don't care about anything but passing blame. I'm moving on.
I dropped engine in again and fit looks ok & headers seem to fit.
I painted the engine bay and cowl today. Coyote goes in tomorrow. Hopefully for good.
 

CabernetFox

Ihatewheelhop
Donator
Getting close to being done!
It fired up in about a half a crank. Sounds wicked thru the longtubes. I have a 3 inch midpipe and 2.5 inch Dynomax mufflers. I think a 302 NA should blow thru 2.5's ok.
Now for the issues: BBK Longtubes and their midpipe didn't like sharing space with the Stiffler trans crossmember. I had to rework the $ 250 midpipe to make things work. I hated cutting into it, but I didn't want to take time to make a new midpipe.
There is a big difference in the front suspension. I had a stock crossmember with PA Racing A-arms and camber plates. Now with the UPR k-member and coilover kit, the toe in is way off from previous setup. I ordered a set of bump steer ends and will adjust it back into correct toe. I had to put on a new steering shaft because of the misfitting UPR k-member also. I'm just about ready for the first test drive. Below is the last picture I have.

coyoteaug12.jpg
 

egbertnr

Member
Congrats on almost getting there. I'm a ways off. Love seeing you guys getting there.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 

CabernetFox

Ihatewheelhop
Donator
Outside is nearly done. I'm installing gauge panel. I liked the look of Florida 5.0 stuff, so I bought their 7 gauge brushed aluminum panel. I've finished wiring the Autometer sportcomp's together and am ready to install tomorrow.
I liked this setup because I have a 5 inch tach and didn't want two tach's in the car.
I appreciate all the wiring diagram info out on the web, even though it isn't all accurate or correct.

florida50.jpg
 
Top