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91GT 4.6 Cobra Swap Gonna need a little help as I go.

VNMSGT

Active Member
Hello everyone. Im new here and run the Untouchable Mustang Club of Central Florida. I was referred to this forum from another because of the swap I want to do on my 91GT. I have owned it for 14 years and was am the 2nd owner. I will be posting pics of the car before and during the build. Some info on the my 91, I had a 347 Stroker with a Vortech in it for years that made right at 500rwhp shutting it down at 6k which it was still pulling and a tremec 3550 among some other things. I dont really race anymore and got tired of the big cam, no a/c, cooling issues on really hot days etc. So I sold all of it and want to put a bone stock 32V in the car which I can cruise anywhere and not worry about anything. My donor motor I got is from a 97 Lincoln MKVIII with just over 100k. I also bought a complete 97 Cobra with a bad knock as a donor car for all my wiring, brakes, k-member etc that I need.
 

VNMSGT

Active Member
My old 347 that was in the car. Built it myself over 10 years ago. 500rwhp at Titan Motorsports open house 2 years ago. Power didnt even start to level off yet when he shut it down at 6k rpms. I didnt want it revved past that, so it had more in it.

 

VNMSGT

Active Member
I also got a complete Cobra Intake with injectors, throttle body and sensors to bolt up to the motor.

 

VNMSGT

Active Member
These are the valve covers I am probably going to use for this motor. They were supposed to be for my 96 Cobra I have but think I am gonna get another set done. I am also getting the Intake cover done like this too so they will match.

 

VNMSGT

Active Member
I am going to use the K-member out of the 97 Cobra that I have so I removed the stock one and removed all the brakes etc off the 91 because I am using all the Cobra brakes off the donor car too.

 

VNMSGT

Active Member
Ok so here are a few questions. Reminder I have a 100% complete 97 Cobra I have been removing parts off for this project.

1- Do I removed the complete fox engine harness all the way to the Computer? I got it all disconnected but its stuck on the passenger side under the dash, looks like its pulling the door wires. Is it connected to the door harness? If so will the 97 harness I have plug in so they will work?

2- What about the harness on the driver side that goes into the firewall? Do I have to completely remove that too?

3- Can I keep the Dash harness and not replace it. Continues in question 4.

4- I want the A/C to work and noticed the connections to the evaporator in heater core are different. Does the 97 one bolt right in if I remove the dash and since Im there should I run the 97 dash harness for any reason?

5- What do I have to slot or change on the 97 K-member to make it fit the fox?

Any help is greatly appreciated. I will be reading through the forum as I do see alot of good info here.
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
  1. Partial answer: you will have to pull the engine harness and computer all the way out. Is your donor car a vert?
  2. The harness on the driver's side contains cruise control, fuse box, etc. You didn't say if you were doing the dash conversion, but I suspect not? You have to decide what you want to work and not.
  3. .
  4. .
  5. The K-member has to be shortened at the back by about 3/4" and the holes slotted on that same back section. If you push it up into place, it will be easy to mark where to cut.
I'm not really a wiring guy. I'm doing my second vert, but am using a convertible body harness. I will repin the door harness and make a couple of small splices to make the Fox power door stuff work with new edge harness. The first vert, the only thing I changed was the motor and tranny. I had an AC shop make the fittings works with the fox stuff. You will find several discussions on here about different ways guys have done the HVAC to make it all work. There are several guys on here that know the wiring better than me.
 

VNMSGT

Active Member
  1. Partial answer: you will have to pull the engine harness and computer all the way out. Is your donor car a vert?
  2. The harness on the driver's side contains cruise control, fuse box, etc. You didn't say if you were doing the dash conversion, but I suspect not? You have to decide what you want to work and not.
  3. .
  4. .
  5. The K-member has to be shortened at the back by about 3/4" and the holes slotted on that same back section. If you push it up into place, it will be easy to mark where to cut.
I'm not really a wiring guy. I'm doing my second vert, but am using a convertible body harness. I will repin the door harness and make a couple of small splices to make the Fox power door stuff work with new edge harness. The first vert, the only thing I changed was the motor and tranny. I had an AC shop make the fittings works with the fox stuff. You will find several discussions on here about different ways guys have done the HVAC to make it all work. There are several guys on here that know the wiring better than me.

Donor car is not a vert and I actually forgot all about the 2 quarter windows needing to be wired dammit! I was wanting to keep the fox dash cause I heard it was a pain to get an SN95 Dash to fit but on another forum I saw a guy make an SN95 Speedometer fit in the fox gauge cluster cover. I also was wondering of swapping the steering column if will fit with the fox dash since I have all the wiring and keys to maybe not worry about the PATS. But if its too much trouble, may be worth getting it disabled with a tune.
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
:rolleyes: Unfortunately for us, the quarter windows tie in through the body harness, which complicates things a little. There are ways to make it all work without giving up your dash. It will mean a bit of disassembly of your existing wiring harness to tie it all in, but it can happen. If you like that dash, keep it and work though the wiring.
 

VNMSGT

Active Member
Well either way I have to replace the dash and get a convertible dash harness or mess with my harness..... I hate dealing with window wiring. Its driven me crazy in the past.
 

VNMSGT

Active Member
This comment is just for my notes so I dont lose it from another thread. In case I dont use the SN95 column and key I have or the sn95 dash.


"I'm pretty sure PATS will go off if the cluster is not there. Its not a big deal. Get an SCT chip and have your turner put a start up tune with PATS disabled. Its what I did and mine started up instantly."
 

VNMSGT

Active Member
So assuming ur running those cam cover I take it ur doing a cop conversion?

Yes I am going to have to get the conversion harness. I have another set of Valve covers that are grey with skulls and are the old style but I dont want the wires.
 
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