dewayne
Well-Known Member
ok im in the middle of stripping my 97 mark 8 and im removing the car from the harness by this i mean everything that does not run the engine has to go
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evap system ? egr ?emissions?
- Thread starter dewayne
- Start date
dewayne
Well-Known Member
ok so ive been removing all kinds of stuff door controls ac/heater controls, air ride, abs, stereo, speakers 
dewayne
Well-Known Member
anyways im down to like egr , evap system downstream o2 sensor
ok now my question is when i send the ecu in to have it flashed they said they will remove emissions egr and downstream o2s
is the evap system part of the emissions or do i need to leave that,
and is it ok to remove the wires to the egr and downstream o2s
ok now my question is when i send the ecu in to have it flashed they said they will remove emissions egr and downstream o2s
is the evap system part of the emissions or do i need to leave that,
and is it ok to remove the wires to the egr and downstream o2s
dewayne
Well-Known Member
the stock 97 mark 8 eec it is the one thats in my car
Speedtospare
Well-Known Member
why not just keep all the emissions? All of my emissions are there including a catted h-pipe and it still make over 300 WHP and TQ
Nah lol! I got rid of everything. I don't live in California though.
dewayne
Well-Known Member
we dont have smog laws in kansas but you must have mufflers due to noise ordinances
dewayne
Well-Known Member
OK so i called Ron Francis today they said remove they wires completely and they said after they remove the emissions, change the shift points it would run way better and respond better too
dewayne
Well-Known Member
ok new questions if my fox has returnable fuel lines and the mod does too why change it to return-less???
im not changing the intake manifold so is it necessary ??
im not changing the intake manifold so is it necessary ??
dewayne
Well-Known Member
ok awesome ill tell them not to change it then
Speedtospare
Well-Known Member
Stuck with the return style setup. I have a 320 LPH intank pump in the fox stock tank/ Stock lines up to the engine compartment. I use lone adapter to switch to braided line and unto the Aeromotive regulator. Braided line from the regulator ro some aftermarket fuel rails. Stick with a much stock things as possible to keep costs down
dewayne
Well-Known Member
When im finished with this car im thinkin ill only have 2500 in it is that down enuf
dewayne
Well-Known Member
Id like to keep it closer to 2000 but im allready to 1800 in it
Trust me when I say, you may experience unforeseen expenses 
Example: I have at least $200-$300 in fasteners/hardware alone.
Example: I have at least $200-$300 in fasteners/hardware alone.
Speedtospare
Well-Known Member
Trust me when I say, you may experience unforeseen expenses
Example: I have at least $200-$300 in fasteners/hardware alone.
My build came in at $14,000 CDN which was 2K overbudget. Then I broke the axles the first day at the track. New rear end was 2K so now 4K over budget (and I still need paint)
Currently, I only have about 5k into my swap but..
I still need:
Forged internals - (purchasing an mmr 5.0 stroker kit) $2500 with parts out the door. I'll be assembling it.
Turbo Kit - (need to purchase a hot-side) $3000 not including the fuel side $4000 with pump and injectors.
Built 4r70w - (I will be building this as a project. I'll probably go circle d or precision for the torque converter) $1600-$1700
5 lug/98 cobra wheel swap. (I have the parts just need to do the work) $1100
All of this is upgrades after the car was put together with a b-head 4.6/t-45 combo.
I could easily spend another 10k, and we have even started talking about paint and a 93 cobra cervini's kit.
Speedtospare
Well-Known Member
HAHA. I failed to add the Eaton Swap, Manly rods, Cobra crank, teksid block (needs pistons) and more because its not on the car yet.
hahaha it gets expensive even when its all stock...m about close to 10k and not done yet...and i have stock fuel lines with return which i hear is better then returnless...