Hello everyone I'm new in this forum. I decided to become a member hoping someone has gone thru the same situation that's happening to me. I started my project with an original mustang coupe 4 cylinders and at the same time I bought a running 99 cobra with only 76,000 miles. I swapped everything from he cobra to the coupe. Motor trans ,dash, irs, ECM harness .ever single wire from the cobra to make it smog legal even the dash and ac unit. Went to start it when I put the key in the anti theft does not even flash it won't even come on. When you open he key there's no power to the cluster and fuel pump won't come on. I rechecked all my work every single ground wire all the fuses are fine. And when you turn the key on I don't have any power on the cluster and the digital odemeter doesn't even display the miles on the car, its blank. For the 3rd time I pulled the dash and rechecked all he connectors , all grounds and everything is plugged . Basically I redid my car 3 times to check for errors and can't find a problem. It sucks because my 99 cobra was running now it doesn't run. Please if any of you have gone thru this problem please please help. Any suggestion will help and it will be appreciated. It seems like there's no communication somewhere around anti theft and cluster. Thank you .
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92 Mustang with a Complete 99 a cobra drivetrain swap car won't Start HELP PLEASE!!!
- Thread starter 92 notch
- Start date
Welcome to the party. You are in the right place. I'm not a wiring guy, but there are several on here. You've already done what I would have recommended in checking your plugs and grounds. Did you buy the wiring book for the 99?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-FORD-M...-99-/161411606616?hash=item2594e1a858&vxp=mtr
This is the book you need. Start out by offering him about $35 for it. He is a used book dealer. He will probably counter with $42.50, which is about what I paid for my last one. Get a reasonable multi-meter. Beyond that, you're at the end of my knowledge on what to do next.
This is the book you need. Start out by offering him about $35 for it. He is a used book dealer. He will probably counter with $42.50, which is about what I paid for my last one. Get a reasonable multi-meter. Beyond that, you're at the end of my knowledge on what to do next.
From my perspective, that book is worth the cost. My current project is a hodgepodge, so I expect to have things that don't work when I get that far. The last one fired right up. I have it to my father in law for a father's day present. It has a problem with the back tires going bald. I told my mother in law I would try to fix that at some point. The old man's as bad as a kid when she's not with him.
well good luck on that one!! Iam still whaiting on a answer on the guy on ebay! You think its a good price so i can buy it now? Or just wait
whiteponygt
Well-Known Member
Just something to check where the plug goes into ignition switch in the middle of the column ,when I pulled everything out of the donor car and switch cheddar it over it pulled one of the brass inserts out and it was hooked up but not enough to send power to my cluster
whiteponygt
Well-Known Member
Its a only $50. I don't think you will find it at a much better price. Check on Amazon.com and on Half.com. If you don't find it cheaper, $50 isn't a horrible price for a dealer shop manual.
Hey man yea i did check for power on that switch and its all good..thanks
whiteponygt
Well-Known Member
Have you took a meter or a test light and start back tracking to see where u last have power
Well i do have power and ground going to my cluster..but its not working! So i was thinking maybe is missing signal from ecm or what ever controls it! And my fuel pump is olso missing ground signal from from my ecm it has power but no ground
This may not be your problem but I thought it might be worth passing along. After doing some work to fit the air conditioning dryer, I couldn't get the car to start although it was getting gas and there was current at the coils. I had taken apart the big 44-pin connector between the engine and ECU harness. It snaps together with plastic clips and has a bolt in the center. I clipped it together but forgot to run down the bolt, so it was getting enough current at the coil to show on an ammeter but not enough to run. That sure wasn't in the shop manual.
cpearson1342
Well-Known Member
Every get this figured out?
Privateer98
Member
figured out?