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86 t-top hatch 4.6 dohc and irs swap

David

Active Member
VIDEO0004_0000040077.jpg VIDEO0004_0000040077.jpg Update,

I decided since I have the engine out again to get long tube headers...let me tell you how much of a PITA that was...then putting the oil dipstick tube back in was just as ridiculous. I ended up heating the oil tube up and bending it slightly to fit.

I used the windshield wiper motor from the 03 mach 1. I had to drill some mounting holes and enlarge the area for the drive of the motor. doesn't look to bad and it works.

I did rewire the lights. The front of the car was wired fairly easy. High/Low beam, turn signals and fog lights. The rear is a little more tricky. The only thing that has to be done is to extend the wires, they are too short and will not reach the tail lights. The only other wiring I have left is the doors, and hook up speakers.

The interior was another issue. I wont get into details on how I destroyed one door, but needless to say, I bought two new doors and I'm in the process of getting the sn95 door skins attached. Thanks to the other member that posted the how to on that...

I have kept up with the body work when I'm not messing with everything else. I cut the corner parts off the rear fender and fiberglassed it to follow the main body lines. ( I'm not using the body molding and have filled in the indention all around) I will see how the rear bumper turns out before I cut the rare 86 gt front fender. I've primered the car since. I bought all new glass, except the quarter windows (they are used 87-93)

I have started putting together the cat back exhaust. Since I have plenty of exhaust tubing left over from two cars. Its very interesting and fun mocking this up, especially around the IRS rearend.

I will be rebuilding the pistons on both front and rear brakes when I get back in. I am also going to try and make my own ram air intake. Similar to JLTs intake. I bought one for my 04 gt and realized real quick that it is just pvc.
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
LOL...I did the long tubes on my first build and swore I'd never do another set for a street car. What brand and size did you go with? I also am curious what you did to the door. I set one on fire once with sparks and debris from a welder. That was quite the mess. It didn't completely destroy it, but made a lot more work...after the cleanup.
 

David

Active Member
I ended up using pacesetter headers. They weren't my first choice, but for the price, I got them. I couldn't justify paying close to a grand for other brands. I was actually planning on making my own. They are 1 5/8 to 3 for the collectors. Now that they are installed they line up perfectly. Installing them was the fun part. I installed the passenger side first with the motor on the hoist above the engine bay. I then came up and down, up and down, and you guessed it, up and down again. As you know, there is very little room inside the engine bay with a 4v. With the engine close to being set in I set the drivers side header into position. It wasn't actually that bad to get everything lined up. The fun part is tightening the bolts down. Anyways, it is done now. All I have to say that if I EVER swap headers again, I will drop the k member and all.

Now for the door. I was planning on going for the smooth look and cut the door hande out. I had a couple pieces of sheet metal to patch the holes and what not. The first piece I welded on went on well except one corner. I burned a hole through the door. So I recut it and put another piece in its place. So it was finished and looked really nice. I was letting everything cool down and decided to do some sanding on the car. After about 5 minutes I smelled something burning...I looked over and sure enough the door was on fire. I thought there was no way...the door skin wasn't on it, no foam, no carpet in the car. I put it out pretty quick. After looking down the door where the glass goes I assumed some slag from the previous weld had landed on the plastic locking mechanism (I did these door a little different than most, I used the inner door panels from the 2003 mach 1 with the outer door from the 86). It also burnt through the cable for the inside door handle. So now I wasn't able to open the door. I had to pretty much chisel and cut parts of the door to get the mangled locking mechanism off. After spending hours on it I had made up my mind I was getting used doors in better shape.

I also bought another rear hatch, Interior panels for the rear. (I still have to dye them black) And I bought some seat belts as well. These were Christmas presents to myself...lol

THEN...my daily driver, the 04 gt, had some issues as well. I had some cooling problems and ended up replacing almost everything cooling related. Water pump, radiator, thermostat. I THOUGHT this problem was fixed. The joke was on me. I was headed down to the parts store to get some primer. I was shifting from second to third and heard and loud pop. Coolant was all over my windshield and the steam was everywhere. I pulled over pretty quick and let the car cool down. I lifted the hood and found my problem. The hose going from the intake plenum to the heater core had blown off. The nipple on the intake had just crumbled to pieces. Luckily there was still enough meat left on the nipple so I could reattach the hose and at least make it back home. I topped the radiator back off and slowly made my way back home. Before I even got a mile down the road it blew off again. This time I was towing it home on my neighbors trailer. Like my day couldn't get any worse, when my old man showed up with the trailer I couldn't get the damn car on it because of how low the car sits (a little over 5 inches of clearance) We ended up blocking traffic so I could use an entrance to the gas station that had a slight ramp. just enough to get my car on the trailer. I had to replace the lower plenum. Before long, everything will be new beside the block on this car... lol..
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
The cooling issue sucks. I bet getting it off that trailer was any more fun than getting it on. Will the long tubes give you trouble if you have to change the clutch or starter? I've never used Pacesetter, but I've used other "value" brands. The fire I set was from the plastic window track. It burned the window track and locking mechanism before I got it out. The door was open and I had walked away, or the car might have gone up with it.
 

David

Active Member
There were a couple things I didn't like about the pacesetters. 1. painted black for looks and will burn off ( I will be using a ceramic coating once the black paint is burned off) 2. There are extra bungs on the front primaries (3 total, I'm sure there is a purpose for it but no instructions and no plugs came with the exhaust) Other than this, they fit perfectly, no fitment issues, and I have changed the starter with the headers on. its just as much of a pain with or with out long tubes...lol...you know what I am talking about especially that third bolt...

Same here about the door...I caught it fast enough to where it didn't do damage to the car..only the door. Now I watch it for 30 minutes after any welding or grinding..
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
Now I watch it for 30 minutes after any welding or grinding..
I use a hand held mister (squirt bottle). It evaporates almost immediately and allows me to make sure I don't do that a gain. I use a little flux core wire feed welder, so the biggest thing I weld is 1" stitches.
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
Is that a sandable paint? I'm looking forward to developing a bit more sill in the paint and body area, so I'm always interested in brand opinions, particularly from guys that don't do a lot of it.
 

David

Active Member
Well, it's been a while. I'll get straight to it. Engine had some scoring on the cylinder walls. Bored .20 and stroked with the mms 4.75 kit. Upgraded primary chain tensioners, arp everything and a couple other small things. Heads were donIMAG0717.jpgIMAG0715.jpgIMAG0708.jpg e with all new parts besides cams and valves. cleaned, valve job, etc... Most of the exterior engine parts were powder coated. Got upr k member set up and of course coilover setup. Got new glass ordered for the doors. Rockauto had the hook up for t top door glass at @90 each...compared to 200 each I was quoted from eBay guys. Got some sallen wheels in. 18x9 in from with an95 spacing with Fox length control arms.18x10 rears with 05-09? Backspacing with some wheels spacers to clear the irs parts. As of right now I have the engine in. Putting the tranny back in. And getting some rubber for the wheels. IMAG0717.jpgIMAG0715.jpg
 

David

Active Member
Spending money...hahahaha...to say the least...I totaled my other mustang last month...I got the insurance check and have used some of that money to finish this build...make in the next week I'll have it up and running again...I still have to break in the engine, burp it, do the brakes and such with all the fluids...
 

David

Active Member
Thanks for the compliments...it's kinda of dirty with it sitting in he garage...I'll get some more pics soon of it all cleaned up.
 

David

Active Member
The tranny is back in...the sn95 tranny mounts are beautiful and clean up we room under the car for the exhaust. Getting the tranny is was very time consuming. I should have known better than trying to install it with the engine already in... everything was in the way. The long tube headers are it almost impossible. With some finesse and lowering the k member about two inches it went right in.

I have the compression for the engine at 9.8...the plan is to add something to it sometime down the road... I would absolutely love a kenne bell, unfortunately the kit is no longer offered... On3 performance...Ehh... the reviews are 50/50...we will see
 

David

Active Member
Got the car out of the garage today. I had some issues with the sn95 rack with the shorter Fox control arms. I cut one inch of each side and it turned out great. Pretty straight forward. I got the tires put on and got them mounted on the car. I was concerned with the 18 x 10 in the rear withthe mounting bolt for the irs bracket. I have 1/4 inch spacers. It's tight, but looks amazing. Hopefully in the next couple days. I will have it running. IMAG0730.jpg20150116_141443.jpg
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
If the IRS bolt becomes a problem, Maximum Motorsports sells a low profile head bolt set that solves that.
 

David

Active Member
Hey Bill, I've thought about those bolts way before...thanks for the reminder...I think I'm in the clear though
 
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