So I understand that the fox axles are 3/4in narrow than my 98 SRA but the housings are the same correct? so if I were to use my built 98 rear is that going to screw with my wheel selections? has anyone done this if so what kind of backspacing/ wheels yall rolling with? I'd like to run some 15s with a 28x10 or 10.50s. then some 17 or 18s with street tires if possible.
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98 cobra SRA swap ?
- Thread starter Jonathan
- Start date
Speedtospare
Well-Known Member
This is the same width axle as your car but out of a 95 GT. The axles are 3/4" wider but the housing is the same size. the driveshaft to housing is different. T56 bolts up to it though 
. I run 17X9.5" rims with a 7" backspacing with a 275/40/17 BFG Drag radial and they fit perfect. Goodyear skatorbacks in the pictures. 10" wide rim would need about 7.25" ish backspacing, fender lips rolled, quad shock removed.
You will lose a little space if you run the UPR coilovers.
. I run 17X9.5" rims with a 7" backspacing with a 275/40/17 BFG Drag radial and they fit perfect. Goodyear skatorbacks in the pictures. 10" wide rim would need about 7.25" ish backspacing, fender lips rolled, quad shock removed.You will lose a little space if you run the UPR coilovers.
Speedtospare
Well-Known Member
Thats what were here for. Good Luck with your build keep us posted!
awesome I'm starting my build next month. just trying to get it moving under its own power. debating on rearend stuff I've got a MM drag pack now but i'm thinking about a 4 link. I think with my 2.6L Kenne bell and 100 shot of nitrous, in a fox. I'd like to see mid to high 9s out of it and still have a nice well mannered street car.
The heavy duty torque arm setup you have will work great and should handle the 9s. Refresh my memory...you've got d-specs and the adjustable sway bar with the 7/8" x .188 bar? Which LCAs to you have? Are they the 32.1 weight jackers?
Did it make the 620 on the dyno? If so, was that with the spray? Where in the rpm range does it hit peak torque?
The only way to know for sure how well the torque arm will do is to sit down and map out the data logs and do math with all the details. My gut tells me it will do fine. I'm betting that there are other links in the chain that will be the weak link long before the torque arm gives up, but we would just have to map it out against everything.
I'm looking forward to it as well. I should get to start working on mine again in a couple of months. I close on a house with a nice size garage and a small workshop area in three weeks. I agree that I think your setup will be able to handle the load. When I talked to MM about it before you bought it, they were pretty comfortable with the application.
You will like the Fit kit. You will need to install the jacking rails and subframe connectors before you do your fuel and brake lines. Don't install your webbing until after the fuel lines or they will be a huge pain in the backside. I had to do quite a bit of hammer and dolly work on the body seams next to the jacking rails, but it makes for a really nice installation.
It is possible to use the jacking rail like a conduit for fuel, nitrous and brake lines...run them through, fill it with Great Stuff Spray Foam, you'd never have to worry about rattle, vibration damage or road debrit damage. You know I like things that are multi-functional anyway.