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Foxbody, SN95 rear end Rim offset

Tim

New Member
So.... 315's stick out about an inch and rub on my set up. I do have a couple hundred lbs of custom audio in it too.... stance looks like crap, .... like a old 70's camaro that needs Joe dirt driving since I had to raise the back with weight jacker adj lowers and the front lowered 3/4 already. I have the 94-04 fr500's (10.5") on SN95 length axles because I actually put ABS on the car so I needed the exciter rings. If I had a +44 offset they would probably fit as I still have about an 1/2" of space on the inside between the quad and tire. Problem is that I cant find a FR500 10.5" with that offset in a 17".

So, after all that my question is.... am I correct in going to the 05+ 18x10 with the 40mm, to get them tucked back in? Then, since I have the SN95 spindles and 13" brakes, whats the right offset for the front . I would prefer not to go 18"s in front if necessary since I just bought the 17" wheel/tire combo fr500 and have brand new tires already.
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
The S197 offset will require spacers to get the combo where you want it. The good news is that using spacers will allow you to put them where you want them. I have a tech article somewhere in my arcives that I helped write. I will try to dig it out when I get time. the bottom line is that you will need to do some hammer work on the inner fender well and apron. the body seam needs to be folded under away from the tire. Up inside, the well needs to be pounded out a bit. You have to be firm but careful doing this. Make sure you know where everything on the trunk side is, so you don't bend something you didn't want to. Don't knock holes in it either. They are a pain to fix. The weight jackers are fine. Like the spacers, they will allow you to adjust what needs to be adjusted. Use a Lakewood tool to roll your fender lips. If you've never done this, take your time and use plenty of heat, but don't burn your paint. Even after you get all the pounding and rolling done, your wells will be really full. You need a good adjustable anti-roll bar, pan hard bar and some quality adjustable shocks. The site sponser will have a good ADJUSTABLE anti-roll bar/par hard setup, or you can ask Jonathan how he feels about his MM setup. The pan hard keeps the unit from shifting side to side during turns, corners and bumps. I do sugest the Nittos. the sidewall configuration on the Nittos lends itself well to this kind of installation. Plus they are drag radials, with work well on the street. You do need to cash a reality check on this installation. What do you want the car to do once you have the 315 in place. If you want it to look bad ass on the street, it will. It will let you lose the "Bubba with big tires" look. If you want to do competative autocross or open track, keep pounding and rolling. I assume that with that much audio, you aren't really headed to the track too much. If that is the case, go with the S197s and spacer, do the hammer and roller work, get the right suspension parts and a can of POR15 and you'll be fine.
 

Tim

New Member
The S197 offset will require spacers to get the combo where you want it....
Thanks Bill. I've got 10 way KYB adjustable's on the back and lips / seams all taken care of. Nitto 555's on all feet too. I am hoping to find the s197 offset FR500's in 17" since I already have all the rubber. If not, I have to try to sell the new 315's and 10.5 rear fr500s to fund the 18"s.
 

Vnmous1

Member
My suggestion is to use the NRC brackets, stock fox length axles, toss the quad shocks...roll the fenders and be done with it! Easy! I'm doing the same thing on my coupe with the cobra wheels off my 03(17x10.5 with 315/35/17 tires)...I will post pics up of it as I get there
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
I don't think you'll have too much trouble finding the wheels you are looking for. The KYBs will be fine. Put them on the stiff end to start, and loosen them up as you get her all adjusted. That will help you prevent unnecessary rubbing. What kind of springs are you using?
 

thundermod

New Member
10.5's with 315's will NOT hang out past the fender (assuming you meant they would hang out passed the flared portion of the rear quarter/wheel well) using a fox housing with ranger 5 lug axles. I plan on running 17x9 FR500's with 245's in the front and 17x10.5's with 315's out back.
Do you know if new ranger axles (the one with disc brake) will fit in a 1988 8.8 rear end ?
For the old ranger axle i think we have to use 2 axle from the same side with drum brake.Do you know wich side and wich size of drums ?

Thanks
 

Speedtospare

Well-Known Member
To keep the stock rear wheel offset and drums, the '83-'92 Ranger/Bronco II Left (driver) side axle (29-5/32") from a 4cyl or 3.0L V-6 with the 7.5" rear end, or '86-'97 Aerostar RIGHT side axles (29-5/32") is what you want. They are the same rear axles, the center section is just on the opposite side when you compare the rear ends. The pumpkins are also off center unlike the Mustangs, so you will have to find two vehicles to pull axles from! You will need the drums from either of these vehicles also if you are staying with rear 9" drums. The 7.5 axle Rangers & Aerostars use 9" drums. These parts are direct 5 lug replacements for the stock 9" rear drums on the 79-93 Mustangs.
*Important: Don't get the axles and drums from a Ranger with the 4.0L engine, as they use 10" rear drums with a wider 8.8" axle (unless you want to convert to larger drums!). The 8.8 in the Explorer is 1" wider per side than the Ranger/Aerostars with the 7.5" axle.
Most of the larger mail order companies have kits that you can purchase, although they are overpriced! The front conversion using the SVO/Lincoln parts running $180-199 for the front 11" rotors (which you can buy for about $40-60 each) and the rear axles and drums for $180-199 (less than $50 from a Ranger or Aerostar).
 

Speedtospare

Well-Known Member
sn95 rear with a 10" wide rim needs a 7.25-7.5" backspacing. I have 9.5" wide Billet specialties and 275/40/17 MT Drag radials and my backspacing is 7"

I will post pictures when I get my car back from getting the new rear end installed. 303 TQ and 4.10's broke the axles last weekend at the track.
 

Speedtospare

Well-Known Member
http://www.mustang50magazine.com/techarticles/m5lp_0806_fox_mustang_wheels/index.html
Its all good. 315s will fit. Yes, it takes some work, but if you absolutely have to have them and don't want a widebody, do what you gotta

315's wont fit with tailpipes. Thats a 10" rim, not a 10.5. Car looks badass but I would be afriad to take a hard cornor with that small of clearend on the inside.

m5lp_0806_28_z+1986_ford_mustang+wheels_and_tires.jpg
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
" I would be afriad to take a hard cornor with that small of clearance on the inside."
Have you considered a track locator bar like the MM setup?
 

Speedtospare

Well-Known Member
" I would be afriad to take a hard cornor with that small of clearance on the inside."
Have you considered a track locator bar like the MM setup?

Good idea. If your going to lose the tails go to a Watts link setup. No lateral movement, no clearance issues
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
Johnathan (member here) has the torque/pan hard bar setup. Get him to post some pics.
 

vabeachsand

Hell yea I street Race!
Donator
Panhard bar is the way to go with the torque arm. I haven't installed my MM rear setup yet, but their lower control arms do really beef up the rear. Currently I am running the factory upper control arms.
 
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