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New Guy LTD w/ 4V

Zeph78

Member
Hey guys I'm working on a 1984 LTD w/ a 4V and 4R70W from an 03 Marauder. I bought the MM about 3 years ago and rebuilt the engine, trans, and rear w/ 4.10's. It has SW long tubes, FTI 2600 converter, Marty O tune, and an ud crank pulley. I enjoyed the car until it got wrecked by my wife...and here I am swapping the engine and trans to an 84 LTD I just purchased.

Any wiring help would be appreciated. I know I need to remove the brake booster, but do the sway bar mounts need to be removed also? Any other info I need to know? Thanks for any help.
 

Zeph78

Member
Also, what's different between the 4.6 and 5.0 k-member? Is it just the location of the motor mount perches?
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
Also, what's different between the 4.6 and 5.0 k-member? Is it just the location of the motor mount perches?
So, there are a lot of architectural differences between the Fox 5.0 and the 4.6. The suspension pickup points are in a slightly different location. Yes, the motor mount perches are also different. The SN95 Kmember is easy to come by, so I would recommend you save yourself some hassle and pick up a complete frontend out of a 99 to 04 GT. You can get the hydroboost at the same time. I would also recommend you get the steering shaft bearing plate while your there. Even if you do a hybrid shaft, that will make the steering easier from my perspective. I'm not much help with the wiring, but there are a couple of guys on here that can help with that. Start a build thread when you can and post us some pics. This site has plenty of space, so you can upload them right to the site.
 

FuturaGuy

Well-Known Member
Staff member
I’ve done a similar swap, putting a 4.6 Cobra into a ’79 Futura, so I may be able to help a little.

Wiring is the most difficult, or at least, the most tedious part. If the Marauder is anything like an SN-95 Mustang, the ECU wiring is integral with the rest of the wiring and not a stand-alone setup like those on the 5.0 Fox Mustangs. You can do either of two things. You can take the Marauder under-hood wiring harnesses and strip away all the non-essentials that already are in place with the original LTD wiring (lights, horns, etc.), making a stand-alone harness for the ECU that connects to the rest of the car’s existing wiring. Or you can strip all of the existing wiring forward of the firewall on the LTD and use the complete Marauder under-hood wiring, connecting it to the LTD dashboard. That’s what I did because I used an ’88 Mustang dashboard which wasn’t compatible with the Futura’s original under-hood wiring. Either way you’ll need the wiring diagrams for both the Marauder and the LTD. (The LTD wiring diagrams may have been posted on foureyedpride.com and your friendly Ford/Lincoln dealer should have the Marauder wiring diagrams on CD. If the service manager is a good guy, he might let you burn a copy of the CD.) Wiring can look pretty intimidating as a whole but if you break it down into individual systems it’s fairly easy, just time-consuming. Do one circuit at a time, starting with something simple like the starter, and trace the current path from the battery to the switch and solenoid, the starter itself and to ground. Then determine where you will make the connection between the Marauder wiring and the LTD. Then do the same for ignition, oil pressure, temperature sensor, etc., until you have everything figured out. And WRITE EVERYTHING DOWN – a year from now you won’t remember what you did.

You have to take the oil pressure and temperature sensors from your LTD and put them on the Marauder engine. The existing sensors on the Marauder won’t work with the dashboard gauges if you have them on your LTD. You’re lucky that your gas tank and gas gauge sender in the tank are already set up for fuel injecting and don’t have to be changed. The Continuous Flow Injection (CFI) in your LTD has a low-pressure pump in the tank and a high-pressure pump external to the tank. You can eliminate the external pump by replacing the low-pressure pump in the tank with a pump for an ’87-’92 Camaro with a 350. It’s almost a bolt-in. Without the external pump, you’ll have room for dual exhausts. I used Mustang pipes and hangers, lengthening the pipes forward of the mufflers for the longer wheelbase, and adding 18 inches to the tailpipes for the longer trunk overhang.

Bill’s advice to use an SN-95 K-member is spot on. The crossmember and rack and pinion steering are a little lower, allowing the hood to close when the engine is installed. Be aware that the mounting points for the suspension arms are also lower and will affect the front end geometry by changing the rate at which camber angle varies under load. I kept my original K-member and had to put half inch spacers on each of the mounts on the K-member, and three-eighth spacers between the motor mounts and the block. The combined seven-eighths spacers, turned on a 45 degree angle, raised the engine about an inch and a quarter, clearing the crossmember and steering but requiring me to make a clearance bubble on the hood.

Good luck, keep us posted with plenty of pictures, and don’t be afraid to ask questions.
 

Zeph78

Member
Thanks for the response! I plan on stripping the Marauder harness and just using keyed power from the LTD harness. I would like to use the Marauder Gauge panel, but I'm not sure if it'll fit. I'll have to write down what I do on this one better than I did on the last swap I did using a stock ECU and wiring because you're right, I couldn't remember exactly what I had done to get it running. haha

I usually take out the low pressure pump from the tank and use an Aeromotive 340 and call it a day. My turbo LTD has dual fuel setup that has two complete fuel systems and 16-injectors. It turns on the second set of injectors based on DC of the pump gas injectors and turns on the big pump at 0 kpa. Octane on demand kinda thing I guess. It works really well and I can just cruise around on pump.

I was able to test fit everything over the weekend and you're correct, the hood wouldn't close. I sourced a k-member and found a set of 96-98 4V manifolds because the Marauder ds wasn't even close! I hope to get a good bit done on the car this week as my plan is to have it going to drive to the Turkey Rod Run this year. Wish me luck.
 
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