84 Notch Build

[cpearson1342]

I've been able to do a little on the car lately, although not much. My shoulder still hurts like a be-ach, so I'm down to mostly using my left hand to do things. I'm getting a MRI, so should get it figured out.

In the meantime, I have to say that I wish my welding skills were a little (lot) better. I used Eastwood's stud welder attachment on my 135 welder. I'd be hard-pressed to use it again. The studs welded on fine, but on three of them the roof skin split into a small hole. With a dazzling display of welding prowess, I finally sealed them up after increasing their size from an 1/32" to about a 1/2". Not to mention it was very difficult to gauge how far up to bring the metal, so I've had lots of sheet metal work to do.

My next task was to stitch weld the bearing plate for the steering column and hydroboost into place. I had drilled out the spot welds from the inside of the car, then used a spot weld cutter to remove the spot welds from the donor car (a 98). For whatever reason, my welder spat and coughed the entire time I used it. Luckily I was welding from the inside of the car, but I has sanded down both pieces of metal thoroughly. I thought maybe it was a bad ground connection, so I cleaned it up again, but that didn't really seem to help. I assume the firewall is 20 g steel, but I turned both the heat and the wire speed and got some of it to penetrate. It still spat like the metal was dirty. I wish I knew more about this. Anyways, here's a photo of the plate installed. I'm fairly certain it's located properly, as I used the two studs for the gas pedal to locate it, then set a spare hydroboost shell into place. I did have to do some enlarging of the holes for the hydroboost unit, but it's level and seems to be where it is on my 96

I have the Eastwood Mig 250 and I love it, I've had no problems with it so far with quite a lot of welding. I agree that it definitely is sometimes difficult to close up holes, but you just need to get the proper setting and be very careful with it. Are you using .023" wire or using .030"? You can also always get a welding spoon to put behind your welds so it doesn't burn through. As for the spatting, I would make sure you have it the proper distance away from the work piece, the tip is good, not elongated or anything, make sure your ground is relatively close and also make sure everything is hooked up properly on the welder. I looked at mine one time and the turn connector was almost coming out, so just double check everything. I haven't tried mine with stud welding yet, but I don't have any problem welding on top of sheet metal with it, and I have the larger amp version so I can't see as yours would be too hot. Maybe your spool speed is too low, causing it to keep getting hot, getting a bit of burn back, and then repeating.

 

[vettn71]

Thanks, Bill. My ground connection may have been too far from the weld site. I was welding at the firewall and the ground was at the quarter window area. I'm using 0.23" wire that came with the Eastwood welder. I was using the chart on the welder as a starting point, but the results were so poor I couldn't get close to what the settings should be. Is the firewall 18g or 20g? That would make a difference in the settings, also

Thanks for the help

Jim

 

[cpearson1342]

Just so you know my name is Chris, not Bill. Bill's username is Bill lol, no worries though

 

[vettn71]

Sorry, Chris. Never said I was smart

:0)

Jim

 

[cpearson1342]

Not a problem, anyway I have never really had a problem with the ground being too far away, but it does happen. I'm not sure the thickness of the firewall, I had two of them sitting in my driveway just a few months ago, but got rid of them recently. I would try lowest heat setting and a little higher on the wire speed and see if it makes a difference.

 

[Bill]

Are you using a flux core wire?

 

[vettn71]

Finally got the image of the bearing plate to paste into this thread. Photobucket can be such a pain.

Any comments? Any thing look wonky? It's difficult to determine if it's in the exact location it needs to be in, but I want it right before I paint. That piece hanging off the front of the bearing plate is the back half of a hydroboost unit. I got that from the JR when I got the bearing plate

TIA
Jim

 

[Speedtospare]

Is this the picture you wanted? You moved the picture so the above cannot be seen.

 

[vettn71]

I'll bet I killed half the photos in this thread. I apologize to anyone following this. I must have my azz hat on today

Jim

 

[Speedtospare]

I did the same thing. Guess is pay to be organized from the start lol

 

[vettn71]

I'm organized until I do something impulsive. :0). Has anyone measured from the top edge and bottom edge to the inner fender? The 96 I have has a different shape to the engine compartment, so it's not much help. I'd hate to paint this thing, only to find out I'm off by a couple inches. Doesn't look like it, but ....

TIA
Jim

 

[JD08]

Jim, I admire the big hairy pair you must have to undertake this.

Bill, I'm sure Chris is impressed by you as well.

 

[vettn71]

We all have hairy pairs. Can someone get a measurement from the bearing plate to the left fender well. I'd like to know this is positioned about where it needs to be

TIA

Jim

 

[StangZ]

How's the build progress? any new updates?