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ready to go modular part 3

Svt Fox

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Research the sight fellas, all of these issues have been covered at one point or another. Here is a brief synopsis.

Crossmember - modify the stock member to work (won't work with long tubes due to the stock crossmember bracket locations.

You can also procure a set of brackets from an sn95 and use the sn95's brackets and crossmember. Both options will require some fab work and welding.

PATS- can be shut off with a chip and a tune. I like SCT stuff personally but, there are several options.

Speedometer- the only thing we had to do was get a longer speedo cable. Bolted right into the T45, and works well.

T45 install- Yes you have to install the trans with the bell housing attached. Use an extra yoke or the yoke of your driveshaft to turn the transmission as you are installing it. It took my buddy and I 15 minutes to put the trans in and start the tranny bolts.
 

whiteponygt

Well-Known Member
Understood I see your point but as far as the modifying the cross member goes everything I see is someone welding a flat piece of metal and redrilling holes,people r intrigued by these swaps and when people are looking I dint want them to think man he hacked that in there when u can simplying get a cross member for it,also why spend the money to have PATS turned off when I've switched everything from the donor car,if it's not broke don't fix it,the reason I ask about the speedometer cable is the vss,if u get a longer cable does it plug into the sn95,which there is this on I looked someone asked the question on an older thread and no one responded.as for the t45 install I have no clue what that's directed towards I installed motor and trans at one time.
 

Svt Fox

Well-Known Member
Staff member
My response were for 89DirtCoupe mostly.

If you're not having issues with the PATS, no reason to mess with it.


The welded plate mod.. The welds on my plate are better than I've seen from some manufactures..

2e8e9upu.jpg


a5u3e7u7.jpg


I would not be ashamed for anyone to look under my car and see it.

ebutevys.jpg
 

whiteponygt

Well-Known Member
Agreed urs doesn't look bad but I'll be the first to admit I can not weld that nice, the main concern with PATS was would it cause an issue with out having the cobra gauge cluster,are u still capable of using your cruise control?
 

Svt Fox

Well-Known Member
Staff member
No. When I got the car all of the factory cruise control stuff was gutted. Plus, (eventually) I'll be running this steering wheel in the future.

nu7y5epa.jpg
 

VNMSGT

Active Member
Finally got the gauges wired up, after countless attempts to make our own harness we finally just chucked that idea and used the 1997 gt dash harness and cut and spliced the 90 connectors on then mated the two body harness right behind the drivers seat. Only thing we had to change was had to splice in the rear defrost module.. more to come..i hope


From reading this I am guessing all the connectors plugged in the 97 dash harness except the defrost or am I reading this wrong?
 

VNMSGT

Active Member
OK Finally finished up all the wiring tonight aside from a speaker or two but everything works, I did want to post this for anyone looking to run the new style heater box and the old gauges, when we was test fitting everything I did notice a few things the heater control panel from the 1997 gt fits right into the holes from the 1990,and also when we switched the door harness the switch panel screwed right into the arm rests on the fox door, no modification needed.

Were you forced to run the 97 Door harness because of different plugs or was there another reason?
I dont really want to swap out door harness if I dont really have to.
 

VNMSGT

Active Member
My response were for 89DirtCoupe mostly.

If you're not having issues with the PATS, no reason to mess with it.


The welded plate mod.. The welds on my plate are better than I've seen from some manufactures..

2e8e9upu.jpg


a5u3e7u7.jpg


I would not be ashamed for anyone to look under my car and see it.

ebutevys.jpg
Is this modifying the Fox Cross member or the Sn95 Cross member. I have both and was wondering which one is easier to use.
 

whiteponygt

Well-Known Member
I used the complete harness from the cobra just because I had it that's how the plus were the same ,I'm running the Fox dash instead of the an the rear defrosted on the Fox has a module and the switch is mounted on the black gauge cover,were the sn is made all together.

The reason I ran the sn door harness is I wanted one touch Windows and instead of splicing I just switched the whole harness,plus I used the sn dash harness so it made for an easy plug and play,u don't have to swap harnesses if u don't want to.

In the pic he modified the stock 5.0 cross member ,the 4.6 is different.if u look on the threads there's one called stifflers her sells aftermarket cross members that are a direct bolt on
 

whiteponygt

Well-Known Member
Ok I feel like when ever I try to take the easy method it turns out to be the hardest so I've been fighting the stock 90 dash into the car and cannot get it to go flush after lots of trimming I still cannot get the dash flush with the sn heater box. The sn is slanted where the Fox air passage is flat . FML I'm gonna have to figure out something.maybe new style dash luckily I just got all the Fox ends cut and soldered on the new harness
 

whiteponygt

Well-Known Member
Question to everyone running the new style dash where or how are you controlling the power mirror. I understand some of you are running the new style door panels but if I want to use the stock fox door panels
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
For the SN95 harness users that are using the Fox door panels, you can mount the mirror control switch over in the console. You have a pretty long wire loom to make to extend it over there, but it looks nice.
 

landy

New Member
"Ok I feel like when ever I try to take the easy method it turns out to be the hardest so I've been fighting the stock 90 dash into the car and cannot get it to go flush after lots of trimming I still cannot get the dash flush with the sn heater box. The sn is slanted where the Fox air passage is flat . FML I'm gonna have to figure out something.maybe new style dash luckily I just got all the Fox ends cut and soldered on the new harness"



You could use the fox heater box, swap the heat cores and have the drier and lowside line modified to the old style fittings for the evaporator. I was in the same boat, but mine is the foureyed dash. And modding the sn95 box is an exercise in futility.


landy
 

whiteponygt

Well-Known Member
Understood on the Fox heater box only problem is the new style heater box is already on the car and hooked up I finally got the dash to hook up I had to trim the sn heater box opening and finally she dropped in there
 

whiteponygt

Well-Known Member
Well made more progress finally got a few more things checked off the list,finally got my cross member problems straightened out,I got the sn rear in, still have to run the brake lines and pb cables but aside from that I'm not to much further from road testing it .I can't wait.also threw some wheeling and dealing I did end up with a nice zex kit,might use it I don't know yet Ive used it on 5.0s but not a mod motor. IMAG0135.jpg IMAG0134.jpg IMAG0138.jpg
 

whiteponygt

Well-Known Member
Praking break cables installed and brake lines ran . Hopefully this weekend I can the brakes bled then ask that's left if radiator hold downs and drive shaft and hopefully I can road test her yuppie.
 

whiteponygt

Well-Known Member
With some great success I got a lot done finished mounting a couple under hood items and ran and bled the brakes finish routed all the wore for the dash got the steering column back in and she's starting with the key again I have to tie up anything hanging down and I'm heading for the road
 
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