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Teksid 2V Tech Article (Must Read)

Taylor

Member
Hi Taylor,
Thanks for reaching out. It sounds like you have a really nice build going. I think the Tbird front cover will fit fine with the Windsor heads. Don't forget that it actually came on a lot of different applications, so don't let the salvage yards charge you "Thunderbird" pricing. Your Windsor heads will also be fine. Given the amount of work you already have in them, they should make great power. I really like the Cobra Engineering link you posted. I love that fixture and those pins look sweet. The fact that they are using stress relieved steel to manufacture them speaks to the amount of experience they have with the product. It has been a while, it seems like the cost of that fixture is about what the machine shop charged me the last time I assembled one. Moving to a one piece lower sprocket is a good call for your application. I know the technology has improved since I sold my shop, but that seems to be the way to go still. If you haven't already, you should check out this guy's stuff: https://www.youtube.com/user/andrewlavender08/videos?disable_polymer=1. He makes more power than I ever even tried to make. As far as a valve recommendation, I'm afraid I'm out of date on that one. I always used Ford Racing 2V guides on these builds, but I didn't have 9mm pins available. Some of the new polymer guide technology is looking pretty good. I'm glad you have a conservative tuner. I agree that (depending on your chassis loss) he probably could have pulled close to 600 out of that on the bleeding edge. An impressive dyno sheet is fun to show off, but not worth much after the engine has a highspeed come-apart. I would really love to watch your build take shape. If you have time, please start a build thread and post up some pictures and tell us about lessons learned. And remember, question everything.
Thanks for replying,

Good to know the Tbird front cover should fit fine with the Windsors heads. I just ordered one and should be getting it next week.
I'm going to get a set of the 8mm pins from Cobra Engineering and use the Ford Racing 2v guides.

I like that link you posted... That guy really does get some crazy power out of the 2v's.

I'm still working on gathering up parts for my build... It's taking longer than i thought, especially with the COVID-19. I'll start up a build thread once i get everything ready to build.

I have another question for you.
To fit my Kenne Bell on the Teksid block, I need to grind off the knock sensors. Do you know if there is any danger of grinding them off too Much? Or is it ok to grind them off flush with the block?

Thanks
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
I don't believe you will have any problems with cutting off the knock sensor bosses. The block is pretty thick there. Just stay above the bottom of the whole. and make sure you smooth everything out really well.
 

Taylor

Member
I don't believe you will have any problems with cutting off the knock sensor bosses. The block is pretty thick there. Just stay above the bottom of the whole. and make sure you smooth everything out really well.

Thanks Bill,

I was a little worried about the block thickness.
Glad to know now that the block is pretty thick there
 

massacre

Active Member
Donator
Thanks massacre,

I'm more confident grinding them off now that I've seen how someone else did it.
Always glad to help any time.

Mark Olson did that write up, he was very talented and a great dude. He was in on the Teksid stuff pretty early. Haven’t seen him around in a long time
The knock sensors changed anyways, so even if you wanted to install late model knock sensors, they won’t fit in the Teksid bosses.
 

Dutch03gt

New Member
Hope this thread is still active. I just bought a full WAP 4v engine out of an aviator for 200 bucks and planning on building something close to this thread. Already running full bolt ons with trickflow heads and cams making 325rwhp just wanted the lighter weight and upped compression along with the ported bullitt intake I just got done. My question since most explorers came with WAP blocks would the standard gt timing cover fit, and with the trickflow heads would you recommend getting the Pistons notched since the trickflow heads give more ptv clearance and the WAP has a slightly bigger dish than the teksids?
 
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Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
Hi Dutch, welcome to the party. Start a build thread or feel free to add to this one. It has been a while since I actually built one of these and even longer since I did the write up. I've never used a GT timing cover. I always used the one listed, as they are easy to find online or in a salvage yard. There has been some debate over whether you need to flycut the pistons, but I always did on anything with extra lift or extra compression by piston swap. You can usually get it done pretty cheap. At the very least, wax gap one cylinder to check clearance.
 

Dutch03gt

New Member
Thanks for the response bill I’ve watched this thread over the years and always wanted to ask questions but wanted to wait until I had most of the parts. Before I send the shortblock off to the machine shop I want to test fit my heads and check ptv I know the aviator blocks give you around a 4cc dish piston which isn’t much space but have trickflow heads and when I installed them on my gt shortblock which I know have more of a dish but I checked ptv and the valves didn’t touch the clay at all and I run 238/244 CMS cams so they are not mild cams. So I’m hoping I won’t need to but I may order a tool that I can fly cut the aviator pistons then send them to the machine shop to have the whole thing balanced. And sorry for so many questions since I know you said you haven’t built one of these in a while, but Are the 4v stock internals able to handle the 11.1-11.5 compression I will be running?
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
Are the 4v stock internals able to handle the 11.1-11.5 compression I will be running?
The pistons can handle it. The Cobra/forged crank can handle it, assuming it is in good shape. I haven't used the stock rods, but have seen drag racers use them as a low budget option. Take lots of pictures :)
 

Kmax

Active Member
I've read and re-read this thread many times over the past year. Bill, thanks so much for taking the time to write it! I almost never do things quickly, so i've been accumulating the parts for this build for a couple years, always intending to get to it right after i finish x, y, zzzz. So finally, it's happening. I found a Teksid block that came from a '99 Cobra, so it has a forged crank and windage tray. I splurged on forged H-beam rods. Hypereutectic pistons with 12.5cc dish should give me around 10.5 to 1 compression with Romeo heads. Here's the block about to be decked, after being align-honed. I'm listening closely if anybody has comments : ) ...kevinIMG_2608.JPG
 

Kmax

Active Member
As Bill suggested, i did a real basic port match and polished the long-side radius on the runners while everything was apart. Nothing radical, as you can see from the side-by-side comparison.IMG_2204.JPGIMG_2192.JPG
 

Kmax

Active Member
The cylinders are in good shape. They've already been bored .030 over, which is seems to be the limit. Here's the block with all plugs out, hot washed, blown dry (yes, down to the bottom of the head stud holes, all water jacket holes, all oil passages) and with a coat of WD-40 on the cylinder walls. After it cools down, i'll wrap it in plastic until it's assembly time.IMG_2625.JPG
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
I am completely jealous. That is a really nice looking block, and the head work you did looks like it will add some nice flow and slow the swirl down a bit, which is also nice. I always find it amazing that the little hole that has to be drilled is what keeps people from doing this build. You will appreciate those rods with the 10.5 compression. That will be a really streetable setup with a good tune. You'll have to tell us about the 11-angle at some point. I've never done that, but am interested. If you see ANY details that I got wrong or any tips to make the build easier, don't hesitate to put it in here. So many people find this thread through a search engine, but want it to be a comprehensive step by step, and that was not the purpose. I'm really looking forward to seeing more pictures and hearing about your experience.
 

Kmax

Active Member
Bill, i appreciate your comments. You're very supportive and humble, considering the experience you have, thanks for encouraging a rookie! I've compiled a bunch of information on this little 4.6 2v, including specs for different options... in case anybody is looking for this stuff. Do you see any glaring mistakes?


New pistons are 12.5cc dish
Cylinders are 3.582 bore (+.030)

If there is 0.008” deck clearance (pistons lower than deck at TDC), and I use a .030” compressed head gasket thickness (factory standard)… static compression ratio will be approximately 10.64 : 1 using Romeo PI heads. Because i use 91 octane pump gas, this is likely the maximum compression ratio i can use.

With stage 1 cams (Comp XE262AH), the actual dynamic compression ratio will be less than the static (10.64 : 1) ratio (because the intake valve closes 42 degrees after BDC, into the compression stroke, thereby losing cylinder volume and compression).

With Trick Flow 44cc heads, the compression ratio would be approximately 10.31 : 1
With Trick Flow 38cc heads, the compression ratio would be approximately 11.31 : 1

Teksid block weight: 86lbs
Cast Iron Block weight: 154lbs

I've already moved the battery to the trunk and replaced the front suspension and K-member with MM stuff, so i'm thinking that with the Teksid block the weight reduction will add up to something like 180lbs off the front wheels. Kind of like the difference between driving alone or having a passenger along, as you said... sitting on the hood ; ). Not as dramatic as the same on a motorcycle, but noticeable. regards, kevin
 
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