• Hello there guest and Welcome to Modular Fox Mustangs home of the 2V, 3V, 4V, Coyote Modular Mustang Conversion Information Website!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

I got the 4V running pretty decent in the fairlane.

ndfastang

Active Member
I can't fit anything more in it without making it look like a Honda front end all cut up. This is said to flow the CFM I need for up to 600hp. That's as far as I will ever want to take this thing anyways. Even if it does half the cooling it's said to do, it's more than not having anything. It's not a race, get every hp possible out of it kind of setup. I don't need to worry about sacrificing things for efficiency so this will do for me here. Thanks for the concern though. Trust me, I've debated the routes to go over and over in my head. I'd still be hurting my head if I didn't just commit and say this is good enough.

More to come.
Dave
 

ndfastang

Active Member
I did a little to the car this week. I finally bought some Ridetech coil overs and installed them to finish up the suspension. The springs are 150lb rate and I set them so the car has the 3/4" rake to fit the drivetrain angle I built in and to give it a good rake look without being too excessive. Planning on getting the bodywork done and having a buddy spray it when he is done with his current paint job. I also have to finally settle on a color I want it to be.








Till the paint is ready, I'll continue to get engine parts.




Dave
 

ndfastang

Active Member
Oh, I did finally break down and get the On3 Cooling setup for the upper hose. I'll get the radiator and the rest of the cooling next.

 

ndfastang

Active Member
Here is the almost finished product. I had to scratch this idea completely. It's 2.5" tubing and I need at least 3" for the HP I will eventually run and for better tenability of the HPX MAF I'll be getting soon. So....I started on a steel set of pipes today. I can MIG them up easily and don't have to keep trial fitting and taking them to a shop or a friend. I can make them up myself and weld on the slot MAF flange as well as the BOV myself. So..... I ordered new boots for the blower and Intercooler and I have some of the piping welded up. These nice shiny aluminum ones will go in the tubing box for something else. I like the shine and light weight but the steel one will be powder coated and I'm not dying for every HP possible out of the package. Here's what I made up and now am not going to use......





I'll have the MAF and BOV on order soon. Then I'll weld it all up, install for fitment and then send off to powdercoating.

Dave
 

Bill

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Donator
You may want to play with the MAF location and orientation on the pipe. We learned this with the C&L power pipes on the 96-98 Cobra setups. The difference can be as much a 15 hp depending on the skill of the tuner. Since you are building your own, you have all the options.
 

ndfastang

Active Member
I know what you mean. I have had to clock MAF's before. I'm putting this one in at a 10:00 position with plenty of straight pipe ahead and behind the MAF for a linear flow. Loosing a few HP for drivability is not a problem with this car.

Thanks

Dave
 

ndfastang

Active Member
I didn't want to chance it or mess with a MAF extended. 3" pipes complete. Just need the MAF flange and the BOV to get here so I can weld them in and the boots are arriving this week too. Then I'll get the pipes powdercoated as well as the valve covers to match the intake. I went with the steel and they turned out great. Much more flow capability just in case.


 

ndfastang

Active Member
It was a decent weather weekend and I had a little time to mess with the car so I went ahead and got the BOV installed as well as the power steering high pressure line built. I was going to put the air filter where I put the BOV but I think the filter will be on the other side or just above the BOV. Not sure yet. Radiator and fan fitment will dictate that. As for the power steering line, I had to run it longer and around where the oil lines from the block to the remote oil filter setup will end up. It's inevitable. I can't get a filter in there past the sway bar and steering setup. No biggie. I don't want to drip all over everything when I do change it.



 

JD08

Member
You, sir, deserve a round of applause. It's hard enough to find parts for a Fairlane, but then a swap like this...

 

ndfastang

Active Member
Thanks. It's been a wild ride but the car was almost perfect when I got it. Finding the replacement interior parts for a 4 door is just stupid. I'll have fun with that when I go for the new interior. It's almost ready to run. I got the MMR remote oil setup and am ordering the radiator this month I think. Surgery and kids activities keep me away from the garage though.
 

ndfastang

Active Member
I got the oil filter setup installed. The only place it would work logically was on the framerail just in front o the engine. The lower radiator hose will have to come out over it and down to the radiator or something but that's what happens when you stuff 5lbs of something into a 3lb bag. She's coming along. Time for the radiator.


 

ndfastang

Active Member
I got my tuner in the mail today. Moates Quarterhorse J3 chip with Binary Editor and EEC Analyzer and Dongle. This is going to be interesting. I'm not a fan of tuning. Time to find a knowledgeable friend.

Wife had to wrap it for my birthday gift from her and the kids since it's my birthday....sometime this week. Otherwise, I'd post a pic or two.

Dave
 

ndfastang

Active Member
Bah, I didn't remember I had a build thread here. I posted in the pics forum. Oh well. I'll repost here and clarify. My old pics are gone due to Photobucket wanting money. Nope. New host for pics here.

So, I had my surgery. I have 16 screws in my neck. A buddy said my picture looks like it would make a great cover to an Anthrax album. I'm doing OK. I drove the car around a little N/A and tried to tune it. Screw that crap. I found a dyno with a tuner that knows his Moates stuff so I'm just going to let him deal with it. Talking with him, I put the blower back on and we can keep it down to around 450 until I forge it.....That's the plan for now. I want to get it running this way first, paint it and get all the body done. Then I will get AC since I now have a radiator and verified I can fit it in there. I've had to do a few little things like fix a small coolant leak from the head crossover mod, clearance the IMRC plates for the different style injector bodies and do more wiring cleaning. I have the intake back on, the coolant system just needs a lower hose and a drilled thermostat and it's done. A pair of fans and an air filter setup for the blower and I'm in there. I have a coolant reservoir on the way and I still need the PMAS MAF to install. Then I can send the valve covers and the blower tubes off to powdercoat. I'm going to get them to match the intake. I also need to do something with the PCV setup. Those breathers only let the fumes into the car. I am going to run a catch can with lines to it from both heads. I know the boost is going to cause oil issues so might as well fix it and the fume issue now.

Here's the engine currently.......




I might have settled on a color. I got me a new 2018 F150 3.5EB in Lightning Blue and I love it. I might just match it.

 

ndfastang

Active Member
Long time since I updated the forums but here she is after paint. I'm putting the trim on, have soft parts for the windows on order and am sending the grill out for polish or chrome. Which ever they think is best. I took the blower off and sold that. I wish I never did. I'll be looking for another soon but for now, get it tuned, get an interior installed and drive it for a while.
3979
 
Top