Speedtospare
Well-Known Member
Just email me ryanmerrill@rogers.com
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Foxbody 4.6 Dohc Swap
- Thread starter ponyboy89lx
- Start date
Got some wiring tucked away and out of the way, just messin around with it. Gonna try to get my new dash cut and mounted in the next day or so, also put the lower dash mounts in from the SN95 car still need to be welded but a self tapping screw works wonders for a temporary hold lol.
I have been stuck on the thought of me having to drop my engine and k-member back out just to change the starter, my starter is fine but i had broke the solenoid awhile back, so today i climbed under the car and changed just the solenoid. Now i believe i have a ground issue, still wont turn over with the key. Tomorrow im gonna try to get it all grounded right, i have a ground from frame rail to motor mount on passenger side, does the main ground on the starter harness bolt to the driverside mount or somewhere else. Let me add that i have my battery in the trunk, so the main battery ground is in the back, do i need to run it up front to the main ground on the harness or what. Could be neutral saftey switch too. I couls jump it over until i figure it out to eliminate that possibility. Help me out peeps. If anyone has a diagram of what grounds go where would be great!!!!!!!!
4whldisc
Active Member
main battery ground goes to the engine from the battery, usually goes to the engine block or the starter mounting bolts, either will work.
secondary ground mounts spur off of the battery to the body supply ground to all else.
if you put the main ground wire to the engine side of the motor mount, you should be good to go so long as it is clean. if you put it on the body side of the motor mount the rubber will probably insulate the ground path.
what guage wire are you using for the main battery wires?
do you have a wiring diagram?
you dont have much luck with grounds do you??
secondary ground mounts spur off of the battery to the body supply ground to all else.
if you put the main ground wire to the engine side of the motor mount, you should be good to go so long as it is clean. if you put it on the body side of the motor mount the rubber will probably insulate the ground path.
what guage wire are you using for the main battery wires?
do you have a wiring diagram?
you dont have much luck with grounds do you??
I hate grounds lol. No diagram. It may be a 1 or 2 guage, its the factory harness from the cobra. The one im talking about looks like it should go to the driver side mount not really long enough to reach anywhere else. I think i will put it in between the block and the motor mount, squeeze it in there and see how that works. Like i said i have the battery in the trunk and its grounded in the trunk i may have to run the cable up front and connect it to the negative ground, probably should do that anyway.
4whldisc
Active Member
if you can, ground the cable from the battery to the lower starter bolt, engine block or a trans bolt. that will be sufficient to supply a good ground for starting. grounding the battery to the trunk will cause you more problems than you'll want to deal with, expense wise, it could even blow the PCM.
if you want to add an eylet to the cable end, you can crimp it with a hammer crimper or use solder, you can get the cable eyelets from harware stores or parts stores.
1 or 2 guage wire is plenty strong.
after you get the battery ground wire ran from the battery to the engine, test the integrity of the circuit with a multi-meter.
this can be done by touching one end of the multimeter lead to the engine, and the other lead to a clean metal body point, have someone crank the engine, there should be less than .5 volt drop, ideal is .2 volts.
if you want to add an eylet to the cable end, you can crimp it with a hammer crimper or use solder, you can get the cable eyelets from harware stores or parts stores.
1 or 2 guage wire is plenty strong.
after you get the battery ground wire ran from the battery to the engine, test the integrity of the circuit with a multi-meter.
this can be done by touching one end of the multimeter lead to the engine, and the other lead to a clean metal body point, have someone crank the engine, there should be less than .5 volt drop, ideal is .2 volts.
Ok i moved the ground to the motor mount same thing no clicking or anything, although on the inside when i try to start i here a relay clicking in the driverside under dash its the hazard flasher, thats the only clicking i hear. But i can take the cap of the starter relay fuse in the engine fuse box turn key to ACC and trip the relay fuse car will start and run, but will not crank over with the key.
OK i have power to the starter relay fuse but none after until i manually press the disected relay, simple check of the WHT/PINK single connector plug by the battery that plugs into the battery/starter harness, this is the wire that gives the solenoid its 12V to activate the starter. So could be the relay or the clutch pedal switch, who knows.
UPDATE!!!!! i dont have power at the WHT/PINK wire at the key switch in START position, so i am at the root of the problem but whats the problem, maybe PATS disabling key switch. AAAHHHHHH I FRIGGEN HATE WIRING PROBLEMS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
4whldisc
Active Member
Im going to try again to resolve this starter issue. This starter circuit is very primitive, any more primitive you would have to use a rope or a hand crank and that is good. If I am correct you have a 96GT or cobra wiring loom. As far as I know, a mustic cobra is just a color, not a performance package.
You say you can fire off the starter by squeezing the relay that is good, the wiring to the starter is intact.
I am going to assume that you checked the white with a pink wire at the ignition switch for power when you turn the ignition switch to the start position. It should have power whether ot notthe clutch pedal is pushed in or not.
It would appear that you may have a relay control issue on the white with a pink stripe pin 85 or the black ground wire pin 86 of the starter relay.
THIS CAN BE CAUSE BY 3/4 THINGS
Check for power at pin 85 of the starter relay. Use a test light, if the light glows when you step on the clutch and turn the ignition switch to crank, this is good.
*Don’t use a cheap 30 cent test light, use headlight bulb or something that can draw some amperage.
If the light does not glow at full brightness, refit the starter relay and test the clutch pedal position switch.
Clutch pedal position switch- a gray 2 pin/wire connector under the dash with a red/light blue and a white / pink stripe on the other side, if you think the switch may be faulty, short these two wires together. Does it crank now if so replace the CPP switch.
Test pin 86 in the fuse box for a good ground, use the test same test light, BUT hook the test light up to the positive side of the battery. If the light turn on as soon as you probe the terminal, this is good.
If you have no power to pin 85 of the starter after shorting out the CPP switch, and you have power coming from the igniton start switch:look in the left hand side of the trunk area of the wiring loom.
Look for a black box, (not a white one, I believe the white on is for the locks)that has a white or gray connector on it. If the box is missing look for the connector. Look at the back of the connector to find a white with a pink stripe in one row and a red/blue stripe in the next row over.
This may help the white/pink wire will have no wire on either side of it. The red/blue wire will have a black with a green stripe on one side of it and an open space on the other. Short these two wires out, does the car crank, if so problem solved.
If not we can go further, test the white /pink wire for power when stepping on the clutch and turning the key to the start position. You should have power.
Lets see what happens when you perform these tests.
Don’t confuse pats with anti-theft, they are not related.
Remember this circuit is primitive, so you only need test a lamp and/or multi-meter.
Good luck. Let me know.
You say you can fire off the starter by squeezing the relay that is good, the wiring to the starter is intact.
I am going to assume that you checked the white with a pink wire at the ignition switch for power when you turn the ignition switch to the start position. It should have power whether ot notthe clutch pedal is pushed in or not.
It would appear that you may have a relay control issue on the white with a pink stripe pin 85 or the black ground wire pin 86 of the starter relay.
THIS CAN BE CAUSE BY 3/4 THINGS
Check for power at pin 85 of the starter relay. Use a test light, if the light glows when you step on the clutch and turn the ignition switch to crank, this is good.
*Don’t use a cheap 30 cent test light, use headlight bulb or something that can draw some amperage.
If the light does not glow at full brightness, refit the starter relay and test the clutch pedal position switch.
Clutch pedal position switch- a gray 2 pin/wire connector under the dash with a red/light blue and a white / pink stripe on the other side, if you think the switch may be faulty, short these two wires together. Does it crank now if so replace the CPP switch.
Test pin 86 in the fuse box for a good ground, use the test same test light, BUT hook the test light up to the positive side of the battery. If the light turn on as soon as you probe the terminal, this is good.
If you have no power to pin 85 of the starter after shorting out the CPP switch, and you have power coming from the igniton start switch:look in the left hand side of the trunk area of the wiring loom.
Look for a black box, (not a white one, I believe the white on is for the locks)that has a white or gray connector on it. If the box is missing look for the connector. Look at the back of the connector to find a white with a pink stripe in one row and a red/blue stripe in the next row over.
This may help the white/pink wire will have no wire on either side of it. The red/blue wire will have a black with a green stripe on one side of it and an open space on the other. Short these two wires out, does the car crank, if so problem solved.
If not we can go further, test the white /pink wire for power when stepping on the clutch and turning the key to the start position. You should have power.
Lets see what happens when you perform these tests.
Don’t confuse pats with anti-theft, they are not related.
Remember this circuit is primitive, so you only need test a lamp and/or multi-meter.
Good luck. Let me know.
4whldisc
Active Member
sorry i type so slow, but i am Dyslexic, and i learned how to type by picking cotton
check the 40 amp fuses in the engine compartment fuse box.
they are marked ign sw, they are three in a row. orange in color.
check the 40 amp fuses in the engine compartment fuse box.
they are marked ign sw, they are three in a row. orange in color.
LOL its ok i type slow also, i will try all this tomorrow. thanks for the reply.
4whldisc
Active Member
try the fuses in the engine compartment first, these supply power to the ignition switch/start circuits.
Well i went through all the checks you posted 4whldisc and i am still unsure as to what the problem was lol. I ended getteing 12V at the ignition switch, so i just ran a new wire from there to the W/P wire and connected it to the starter wire plug. Starter and key work like normal. But i went through all the checks you posted and the only place i could get power was at the Anti-theft box in the back, so i jumped the W/P and R/LB, but i ended up undoing it when i found out that i had power to through the key, i still had no power up to the starter though. So i just made my own power. Im thinking that may inside the engine fuse box i have a burnt or broke wire or a bad relay fuse. Atleast it starts with the key now. Who knows but thanks for the help!!!!!!!!
4whldisc
Active Member
hang-on hot rod, you cant just wire the ignition sw to the starter relay, itisnt sesigned to carry that kind of load.
you'll need to use a relay and a fuse for circuit protection if you want to run a wire from the ignition sw to the w/p wire below the fuse box.
we can go furhter into the diagnosis if you like and work it out properly, if you want to.
it's always best to do things correctly.
hava a think.
you'll need to use a relay and a fuse for circuit protection if you want to run a wire from the ignition sw to the w/p wire below the fuse box.
we can go furhter into the diagnosis if you like and work it out properly, if you want to.
it's always best to do things correctly.
hava a think.
4whldisc
Active Member
The reason I was asking, was the security module still in the car?
Are your power door locks wired-up & working either from the switch or the remotes?
Do you have a programmed remote fob?
The problem could be as simple as just needing a remote fob to be programmed or permanent overlay of the wires at the 2 wires wh/pk & r/lb @ the security module.
Are your power door locks wired-up & working either from the switch or the remotes?
Do you have a programmed remote fob?
The problem could be as simple as just needing a remote fob to be programmed or permanent overlay of the wires at the 2 wires wh/pk & r/lb @ the security module.
Yes to all 3 questions, i took everything from the cobra besides the MACH 460 stereo stuff, all the buttons work with fob, door switches works correctly, i think its either a relay fuse bad or a broken wire somewhere, it works for now atleast i can move the car around again.
Same here.
LOL you having troubles to?
Today im gonna try to get my exhaust under the car and get it mocked up to be welded. Still need a tune but getting closer. I made me a to-do list lol and i knock down a couple of things each day, feels good to be knocking down stuff that i thought of like two years ago. Still got body work and paint but that will have to wait until it gets warmer. Gonna try to get the exhaust checked off the list today.